10 Must Summit Mountains of the Eastern Sierra
The Eastern Sierra skyline just outside of Bishop, CA. Photo by Dalton Johnson
Are you looking to stand on the summit of a mountain in the Eastern Sierra on your next road trip? Perfect! You found the right place for a tick list. Below you will find 10 peaks, some obvious, some not so much, that have been challenging, enjoyable, and made my list of “Must Summit” peaks. Most of these peaks can be done in a single day of hiking, but are often made more enjoyable if you have the time for a backpacking trip. Regardless, park your vehicle at the trailhead and get started, the Eastern Sierra is calling!
Mount Whitney
Boasting as the highest summit in the lower 48, Mount Whitney, is an obvious first choice. The catch… permits. While you can play the permit game, and I could talk poorly about the permit system, just know that you have options; go outside of the permit season, play the permit game, take the chance of getting the ticket, and many more. It’s your choice. However, before I go too deep down that wormhole, I’m going to catch myself and turn the corner.
Why should Mount Whitney be on the list of Must Summit Mountains in the Eastern Sierra?
Mount Whitney is the tallest mountain in the lower 48, so if you are chasing summits… do it
You can rock climb, scramble, or walk to the top of Mount Whitney
If you decide to summit Mount Whitney, over a couple of days, this backpacking trip will be one you will remember for the rest of your life
At the top, there is a hut that is historical, well built, and worth checking out… like how did they build this?!
The summit views provide a glimpse into all that the Eastern Sierra have to offer
How to climb Mount Whitney:
Option one: hike to the top
Option two: Mountaineers Route
Options three: The Regular Route (5.6)… it’s a classic
Scott making the final moves towards the summit of Mount Emerson in the Eastern Sierra. Photo by Dalton Johnson
Mount Emerson
Do you like easy free solos? Well, if you do, this is your peak! Located a stone’s throw to Bishop, CA — no really you could throw a rock from the top and hit the town square of Bishop —Mount Emerson is a part of the skyline I’ve grown to love and cherish. For most, this peak is a half-day outing that can take a full day with route finding. The piece of resistance is the top! Several rock features will blow your mind, at least they blew mine while climbing Mount Emerson. Especially the knife’s edge! Take your time while scrambling this peak. If it is outside of your free soloing, bring a rope with you and take a full day! Climbing Mount Emerson is a fun adventure.
Why should Mount Emerson be on the list of Must Summit Mountains in the Eastern Sierra?
If you spend enough time in Bishop, CA you will often look at this peak along the skyline
The technical rock climbing is 200 feet in total, so it is very accessible to free-solo
You can bring a rope and protect all of the technical climbing
Climbing Mount Emerson’s takes a half day
How to climb Mount Emerson:
Option one: Free Solo
Option two: Bring a rope, 5.6 chimney and 4th class ridge traverse
Approach views of Matterhorn Peak (in the back) while on a climbing trip in the Eastern Sierra. Photo by Dalton Johnson
Matterhorn Peak
Okay, we all wish that this was the real Matterhorn, but California climbers just can’t have it all in the Eastern Sierra. The approach hike will definitely kick your butt, so think about turning this climb into a two, or three, day backing trip while sleeping at the lake below the moraine. Once you are here and are thinking about climbing, go do it! If you have the skills to trad climb, get after it! This peak is only a few pitches with a crux of 5.7. If you are a peak bagger, head up the gully, around the backside, and walk to the top! Either way, this peak is one any peak bagger should dream of summiting. Not because the climbing is epic, head over to the Incredible Hulk for that. This peak is wonderful because of its historic connection with the Beatniks, as featured in the book The Dharma Bums by Jack Kerouac. Kerouac and Gary Snyder climb this peak. Pretty cool right?
Why should Matterhorn Peak be on the list of Must Summit Mountains in the Eastern Sierra?
This peak has historical context for the Beatnik community… arguably a foundational movement which paved the way for the modern “dirtbag”
Technical rock climbing on Matterhorn Peak is short; 4-6 pitches
You can easily break this climb into a 2 or 3 day backpacking climb
How to climb Matterhorn Peak:
Option one: Regular Route (5.7)
Option two: 3rd class gully
Scott and I scrambling to the top of Bear Creek Spire on a climbing trip in the Eastern Sierra. Photo by Dalton Johnson
Bear Creek Spire
History at its finest. The traditional route up Bear Creek Spire was first ascended by Galen Rowel. For those who are unfamiliar with Rowel, he was a pioneer in climbing photography and the Eastern Sierra. Maybe, most known today as Jimmy Chin’s mentor. Unfortunately, Rowel has passed, however he left behind a plethora of first ascents throughout the Eastern Sierra, including Bear Creek Spire. As you climb this buttress to the peak, just think about doing it in boots! Such incredible climbers they must have been back in the day, I surely tip my hat to them all.
Why should Bear Creek Spire be on the list of Must Summit Mountains in the Eastern Sierra?
A historical tick that you earn
A long and winding climb, a good place to simul-climb
The pitch after the crux is really fun! You will climb through a keyhole, which is rad
How to climb Bear Creek Spire:
Option one: Regular Route 5.8
Option two: Scramble the descent gully (not recommended)
Looking back at Mount LaConte in the Eastern Sierra while linking with Mount Mallory and Mount Irvine. Photo by Dalton Johnson
Mount LeConte
When you climb Mount Langley, you will stare at this peak and think to yourself, “I should be over there, climbing that!” Mount LeConte is a 4th class scramble, that is often overlooked because of its position and trailhead being located in the same parking lot as Mount Whitney. Climbing Mount LeConte, you will find a memorial plaque for someone who slipped while scrambling. Please, pay your respects and climb carefully! The route is 4th class, but it is a real 4th class route defined in the High Sierra bible as, “4th class is like climbing a ladder where a fall would result in death.” Okay, enough of the scary talk.
Climbing Mount LeConte, and the link up with Mount Mallory and Mount Irvine is one of my favorites in the Eastern Sierra. You will be alone, as people typically do not venture out there. There is a grouping of lakes you can sleep at that almost always has permits available. And lastly, the scramble leaves you engaged! Moreover, the descent, often on moderate snow patches will keep you focused until you are celebrating your summits with a skinny dip in the snow-fed lake!
Why should Mount LeConte be on the list of Must Summit Mountains in the Eastern Sierra?
Climbing Mount LeConte in a day is a great fitness test
Linking Mount LeConte with nearby peaks makes for a stellar outing!
You will likely be alone
This peak is often overlooked, yet it is fun and accessible to avid peak bagger
How to climb Mount LeConte:
Option one: 4th class gully
Option two: link up with Mount Mallory and Mount Irvine
Grabbing some water and taking a short break before heading up the snow slope to Mount Sill in the Eastern Sierra. Photo by Dalton Johnson
Mount Sill
Want to feel like an alpinist? Climbing Mount Sill is a full-value climb that “requires”* a variety of skills to reach the top. Because of this, climbing Mount Sill holds a special place in my heart. As you approach the climb, you’ll jump through the moraine of house-sized boulders, then ascend a snow slope of a glacier to gain another snow slope. At this point, several hours have passed and you might be asking yourself, “Where the heck does this climb start?” And then, out of nowhere, you pull around an arete to a hunk of climbable rock. That is the start! Quite honestly, I am not sure we were on the correct route, but the climbing was fun regardless.
*You should be familiar with and know how to use crampons and an ice ax, this will keep you safe, especially on the descent. Also, knowing the basics of a glacier and glacial travel should be in the back of your mind. I put quotes around requires because the requirement is more of a STRONG recommendation around snow. You can work through this without much skill, but it will be sketchy.
Why should Mount Sill be on the list of Must Summit Mountains in the Eastern Sierra?
You will feel like an alpinist
Great technical climbing on quality rock
Mount Sill will test your alpine rock climbing route finding skills
How to climb Mount Sill:
Option one: Swiss Arete (5.7)
Option two: 4th class route
Option three: Palisade Traverse
Climbing Middle Palisade on an Eastern Sierra peak bagging road trip. Photo by Dalton Johnson
Middle Palisade
Tucked away with limited access in the Eastern Sierra, Middle Palisade is a peak that is often overlooked, unless you are hunting for 14,000-foot summits. At the end of the day, climbing Middle Palisade has a history of confusing people. Hell, even Alex Honnold and Cedar Wright climbed the wrong peak in Sufferfest 2. Middle Palisade can easily be accessed from the John Muir Trail, however, to get there would be heinous. So, most access the climbing routes of Middle Palisade via the South Fork and ascend a 4th class gully to the summit. I suggest a helmet, as the rock fall is high, especially if somebody else is there. Other than locating the correct peak on the horizon, climbing Middle Palisade is straightforward. Go up the gully and scramble to the top. Celebrate, then come back down.
I’ll admit, this Eastern Sierra peak was hard for me. I struggled to get to the top and I don’t think it was the altitude. Middle Palisade, while on paper, can be done in a day, I took three. The summit day still kicked my butt. The approach is long and the amount of time one is focused on the scramble is long. During our climb, we came across two other parties (note, in the summit register, our parties were the first to summit Middle Palisade in over three years), so rock fall was happening all of the time. Adding to the stress, we didn’t have helmets.
In the end, everyone was super kind and we all exchanged phone numbers, one guy even gave me a Phish CD!
Why should Middle Palisade be on the list of Must Summit Mountains in the Eastern Sierra?
Middle Palisade is a test of endurance and fitness
Off trail route finding skills for beginners will be tested
A mental test of comfortability around prolonged exposure
How to climb Middle Palisade:
Option one: hike to the top
Option two: there are rock climbing routes, check them out on Mount Project
Mount Williamson reflecting in the morning light while approaching the peak to climb on an Eastern Sierra mountain climbing trip. Photo by Dalton Johnson
Mount Williamson
As the second tallest peak in the Eastern Sierra, Mount Williamson was on my list of summits to climb. I was interested in linking both Mount Williamson and Mount Tyndall together, in a day. Turns out, that was ambitious and 48 hours was a better option. Climbing Mount Williamson in the Eastern Sierra is a fun climb. The traditional route takes you through variety of lakes, to a gully. At the bottom, this gully is loose and could dislodge large blocks. As you progress upward, the rock gets good and you are scrambling on solid granite. Eventually, you ascend a 4th class chimney to gain the ridge which takes you to the summit of Mount Williamson.
*Strangely enough, you get really good service on the top of Mount Williamson if you have Verizon. I only know this because I forgot to turn my phone on airplane mode and was bombarded with messages when I got to the top, taking away from the nature experience. Make sure to turn your phone to airplane mode.
Why should Mount Williamson be on the list of Must Summit Mountains in the Eastern Sierra?
Mount Williamson is the 2nd highest peak in the Eastern Sierra
The chain of lakes at its base are gorgeous
The climbing is a good introduction to harder, technical climbs
How to climb Mount Williamson:
Option one: The 4th class gully
Option two: Link with Mount Tyndall for an epic 4th class adventure
Thunderbolt Peak
When I look back at some of my favorite summits in the Eastern Sierra, Thunderbolt peak might be the highest on the list. Why? Climbing Thunderbolt Peak has one of the coolest top outs as well as fun route finding throughout the climb. If you take your time to climb this peak, aka sleep at the lake below, summit, then pack out, climbing Thunderbolt Peak in the Eastern Sierra is a gem. For the most part, if coming from the North Lake trailhead, the climbing route is fourth class, up a gully, for a wild finish. Some have argued that the last 200 feet are low fifth class, so just be heads up.
Climbing peaks in the Eastern Sierra has a way of smacking you with reality. I was struggling at the start, as the route covers a good amount of vertical terrain and Thunderbolt peak was an early season summit for me—aka I was out of shape! Along the route, I met up with another group who were summiting all the 14ers in California and were just having a blast! Together, we bagged this summit and headed to Starlight peak the following day for another successful summit.
Why should Thunderbolt Peak be on the list of Must Summit Mountains in the Eastern Sierra?
The climbing is engaging
The exposure for the top out gets the heart fluttering
You are likely have the summit to yourself
The summit block top out is something you will never forget
How to climb Thunderbolt Peak:
Option one: Hike and climb from North Lake trailhead via gully
Option two: Come across the massif doing the Sill to Thunderbolt traverse
The approach to climb Mount Langley in the Eastern Sierra Mountains on a climbing road trip. This is the Ashram approach. Photo by Dalton Johnson
Mount Langley
I put Mount Langley on this Eastern Sierra tick list for those who are just starting out. While I don’t think this peak is very exciting, it is for a first time peak bagger. To summit Mount Langley, you have to be ready for a slog. Not in a bad way, it just is a long, long ways for a single day push. So, if you are just bagging this peak to claim all the 14ers in California, then let’s face it, this peak blows. However, if you are trying to climb your first 14,000 foot peak in the Eastern Sierra, Mount Langley is a great place to start. To enjoy this, I would suggest doing it in two days, maybe three, so that you can have fun with friends. Bring some celebratory drinks, roast some s’mores, and reconnect with nature as you build those quads and glutes when hiking to the top via the standard route.
Why should Mount Langley be on the list of Must Summit Mountains in the Eastern Sierra?
Non-technical 14,000 foot peak that is accessible to most
Great summit views
Wonderful two or three day camping trip while staying at lakes along trail
A challenge for anyone doing this peak out and back in a day!
How to climb Mount Langley:
Option one: Hike to the top
Option two: Scramble past the Ashram
The Eastern Sierra have been nicknamed the Range of Light for many reasons, one of which being the rainbows often seen during and after a storm. Photo by Dalton Johnson
To Conclude
Summiting mountains in the Eastern Sierra is a blast. Along the way, make sure to enough the wild flower blooms, wildlife, and take in the summit views. If you are seeking a physical or mental challenge, chasing summits in the Eastern Sierra the place for that. If you have goals of climbing in the greater ranges (the Andes, Alaska, Himalayas) the Eastern Sierra Mountains are a formidable training ground. The best part of all these places listed above, even if you don’t reach the summit, the treks out are well worth the adventure.
Please note: Climbing of any kind is dangerous and I do not assume responsibility for any of your actions. These accounts are from my personal experience. The overall rock quality is good, but do be careful. All of these routes are to be respected, even the half day climbs. Make your own judgement calls, understand your limits, and be safe.
